Famous Perfumers: 18 Master Noses and the Perfumes They Created

Every perfume has an author. Most people know the brand on the bottle, but very few know the perfumer, often called the nose, who actually composed it. Yet the same handful of names sit behind many of the world's most-loved scents, across dozens of brands.

Following perfumers is one of the smartest ways to discover fragrances. If you love one of their creations, there is a good chance you will enjoy their other work too, even under a completely different label. Below are 18 perfumers whose work we carry, the perfumes they are known for, and where to try them.

18 perfumers at a glance

What does a perfumer actually do?

A perfumer turns an idea into a formula. A brand usually sends a brief, a mood, a story or a target customer, and the perfumer composes and refines the scent over months, sometimes hundreds of trial versions.

Most perfumers work for large fragrance houses such as Givaudan, dsm-firmenich, IFF and Robertet, and create for many brands at once. That is why one person can be behind a designer bestseller and a niche favourite in the same year. A few work in-house for a single brand, like Christine Nagel at Hermès today, or run their own houses, like Francis Kurkdjian and Roja Dove.

The perfumers and their signature creations

1. Francis Kurkdjian

Born in Paris in 1969, Kurkdjian created Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier when he was just 25. In 2009 he co-founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Marc Chaya, and its Baccarat Rouge 540, first made for Baccarat's 250th anniversary, became a bestseller. His house ranges from light scents such as Aqua Universalis to richer ones such as Oud Satin Mood.

Signature creations: Le Male (Jean Paul Gaultier, 1995); Narciso Rodriguez For Her, with Christine Nagel (Narciso Rodriguez, 2003); Baccarat Rouge 540 (Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 2015); Oud Satin Mood (Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 2015).

Try their work: Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose, 2 ml sample, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis Forte, 2 ml sample, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Eau de Parfum. All perfumes by Francis Kurkdjian.

2. Alberto Morillas

Born in Seville and raised in Geneva, Morillas is largely self-taught. He joined Firmenich in 1970 and won the Prix François Coty in 2003. His work draws on the Mediterranean and on gardens, and often turns on citrus, sea notes, musks and white flowers. Acqua di Giò for Giorgio Armani (1996) remains his best-known creation.

Signature creations: Acqua di Giò (Giorgio Armani, 1996); Flower by Kenzo (Kenzo, 2000); Daisy (Marc Jacobs, 2007); Good Girl Gone Bad (Kilian, 2012).

Try their work: Armani Acqua di Giò Profondo Eau de Parfum, Chopard Black Incense Malaki, 1.5 ml sample. All perfumes by Alberto Morillas.

3. Dominique Ropion

Paris-born Ropion has worked at IFF since 2000 and was named a Master Perfumer in 2018. He is known as a meticulous perfectionist who takes creative risks, often pairing large doses of powerful materials with finely measured accords. Portrait of a Lady for Frédéric Malle (2010) is usually cited as his finest work.

Signature creations: Portrait of a Lady (Frédéric Malle, 2010); Alien, co-created (Mugler, 2005); Flowerbomb, co-created (Viktor&Rolf, 2005); La Vie Est Belle, co-created (Lancôme, 2012).

Try their work: Givenchy Irresistible Eau de Parfum, 1 ml sample. All perfumes by Dominique Ropion.

4. Olivier Cresp

Born in Grasse in 1955 into a family of flower growers, Cresp joined Firmenich in 1992 and became a Master Perfumer in 2006. He says he looks for one strong, unusual concept that will turn heads. Mugler Angel (1992), created with Yves de Chiris, proved the point, and Dolce&Gabbana Light Blue followed in 2001.

Signature creations: Angel (Mugler, 1992); Light Blue (Dolce&Gabbana, 2001); Black XS (Paco Rabanne, 2005); Black Opium, co-created (Yves Saint Laurent, 2014).

Try their work: Dolce&Gabbana Light Blue Eau de Toilette, Givenchy Gentleman Eau de Parfum. All perfumes by Olivier Cresp.

5. Anne Flipo

An ISIPCA graduate and IFF Master Perfumer, Flipo was named The Fragrance Foundation's Lifetime Achievement Perfumer in 2023. She says she has no fixed style, but aims for a recognisable signature that gives immediate pleasure. Orange blossom, neroli, jasmine sambac, patchouli and orris are among her favourite materials.

Signature creations: Lady Million (Paco Rabanne, 2010); La Vie Est Belle, co-created (Lancôme, 2012); L'Interdit Eau de Parfum (Givenchy, 2018); Libre (Yves Saint Laurent, 2019).

Try their work: Givenchy L'Interdit Eau de Parfum, 1 ml sample, Chloé Love Story Eau de Parfum. All perfumes by Anne Flipo.

6. Christine Nagel

Raised in Geneva, Nagel studied organic chemistry before turning to perfume. She joined Hermès in 2014 and in 2016 became the house's sole in-house perfumer. She favours simplicity and believes anyone can wear any fragrance, whatever its masculine or feminine label.

Signature creations: Narciso Rodriguez For Her, with Francis Kurkdjian (Narciso Rodriguez, 2003); Sì (Giorgio Armani, 2013); Wood Sage & Sea Salt (Jo Malone London, 2014); H24 (Hermès, 2021).

Try their work: Jo Malone London Wood Sage & Sea Salt, 1.5 ml sample, Armani Sì Eau de Parfum, 7 ml, Hermès H24 Eau de Parfum, 12.5 ml. All perfumes by Christine Nagel.

7. Carlos Benaïm

Born in Tangier, Benaïm joined IFF's training programme in 1967. In 2013 IFF named him its first Master Perfumer, and he has created or co-created more than 400 fragrances. He draws on art and nature, with references to Matisse, Cézanne and Rothko, and is known for simplicity and emotional resonance.

Signature creations: Polo (Ralph Lauren, 1978); Red Door (Elizabeth Arden, 1989); Polo Blue (Ralph Lauren, 2002); Flowerbomb, co-created (Viktor&Rolf, 2005).

Try their work: Elizabeth Arden Red Door Eau de Toilette, Armani My Way Eau de Parfum, 7 ml. All perfumes by Carlos Benaïm.

8. Jean-Christophe Hérault

A Paris-based perfumer at IFF, Hérault was mentored early in his career by Pierre Bourdon. He is drawn to smoky and leathery notes. He is credited on Creed Aventus (2010), the smoky pineapple and birch scent that became one of the most copied fragrances of its time.

Signature creations: Aventus (Creed, 2010); Spicebomb Extreme (Viktor&Rolf, 2015); Alien Man (Mugler, 2018); The One for Men Eau de Parfum Intense (Dolce&Gabbana, 2020).

Try their work: Creed Aventus, 1.7 ml sample, Coach Open Road Eau de Toilette. All perfumes by Jean-Christophe Hérault.

9. Pierre Bourdon

Born in Paris in 1946, Bourdon studied political science before training for five years at Roure in Grasse. He helped define the modern fresh fougère for men, and has mentored several of today's working perfumers, Jean-Christophe Hérault among them.

Signature creations: Kouros (Yves Saint Laurent, 1981); Green Irish Tweed (Creed, 1985); Silver Mountain Water (Creed, 1995); Iris Poudre (Frédéric Malle, 2000).

Try their work: Creed Green Irish Tweed, 2 ml sample, Creed Silver Mountain Water, 2 ml sample, Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Eau de Toilette. All perfumes by Pierre Bourdon.

10. Jean-Claude Ellena

Born in Grasse in 1947, Ellena was the exclusive in-house perfumer of Hermès from 2004 to 2016, where he created the Hermessence collection. He is known for a minimalist style built on a few carefully chosen materials, and wrote a book about his craft, The Diary of a Nose.

Signature creations: First (Van Cleef & Arpels, 1976); Déclaration (Cartier, 1998); Un Jardin sur le Nil (Hermès, 2005); Terre d'Hermès (Hermès, 2006).

Try their work: Terre d'Hermès Parfum, 2 ml sample, Cartier Déclaration Eau de Toilette, 10 ml. All perfumes by Jean-Claude Ellena.

11. Hamid Merati-Kashani

A Principal Perfumer at dsm-firmenich, Merati-Kashani was born in Germany and spent his childhood in Isfahan, Iran. He describes himself as Iranian in education and German in organisation. He is best known for his long run at Parfums de Marly.

Signature creations: Pegasus (Parfums de Marly, 2011); Layton (Parfums de Marly, 2016); Percival (Parfums de Marly, 2018); Althaïr (Parfums de Marly, 2023).

Try their work: Parfums de Marly Pegasus, 10 ml, Parfums de Marly Althaïr, 5 ml. All perfumes by Hamid Merati-Kashani.

12. Pierre Negrin

Grasse-born Negrin studied physics and chemistry before learning perfumery in fragrance laboratories. He favours earthy notes and minimalist structures, and compares perfumery to writing. His best-known creation is Tom Ford Black Orchid (2006), and he is closely linked with Amouage.

Signature creations: Polo Black (Ralph Lauren, 2005); Black Orchid (Tom Ford, 2006); Interlude Man (Amouage, 2012); Opus VII Reckless Leather (Amouage, 2013).

Try their work: Tom Ford Black Orchid, 2 ml sample, Amouage Interlude Man, 2 ml sample. All perfumes by Pierre Negrin.

13. Calice Becker

A Vice President Perfumer at Givaudan, Becker has also directed its perfumery school and received The Fragrance Foundation's Lifetime Achievement Award. She likes to add an unexpected element to each composition, which she calls a dose of intrigue. Her breakout was Tommy Girl (1996), and she is closely associated with Kilian.

Signature creations: Tommy Girl (Tommy Hilfiger, 1996); Love Don't Be Shy (Kilian, 2007); Back to Black (Kilian, 2009); Velvet Orchid (Tom Ford, 2014).

Try their work: Kilian Love Don't Be Shy, 1.5 ml sample, Kilian Back to Black, 1.5 ml sample. All perfumes by Calice Becker.

14. Daphné Bugey

A Principal Perfumer at dsm-firmenich and an ISIPCA graduate, Bugey is credited with more than 150 perfumes. She calls herself a free spirit, and her work tends to be spontaneous and bold, from the honey and gardenia of Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal to Q by Dolce&Gabbana.

Signature creations: Kenzo Amour (Kenzo, 2006); Rose 31 (Le Labo, 2006); Scandal (Jean Paul Gaultier, 2017); Q by Dolce&Gabbana (Dolce&Gabbana, 2023).

Try their work: Dolce&Gabbana Q Eau de Parfum, 1.5 ml sample, Christian Louboutin Loubiraj, 4 ml. All perfumes by Daphné Bugey.

15. Olivier Pescheux

A Givaudan Master Perfumer and a respected mentor to younger perfumers, Pescheux died in July 2023, aged 57. Givaudan described his scents as elegant and luminous, and he cited Thai cuisine, Japanese tea and Zen gardens as influences.

Signature creations: 1 Million, co-created (Paco Rabanne, 2008); Legend, co-created (Montblanc, 2011); Explorer (Montblanc, 2019); Herod (Parfums de Marly).

Try their work: Paco Rabanne 1 Million, 1.5 ml sample, Montblanc Explorer, 2 ml sample. All perfumes by Olivier Pescheux.

16. Jérôme Epinette

Burgundy-born and now based in New York, Epinette works at Robertet. He blends fine natural materials with modern synthetics, often starting from mood boards, and patchouli and sandalwood are his signature materials. He composed most of the Byredo line.

Signature creations: Bal d'Afrique (Byredo, 2009); Dear Polly (Vilhelm Parfumerie, 2015); Velvet Haze (Byredo, 2017); Cheirosa '71 (Sol de Janeiro, 2020).

Try their work: Byredo Velvet Haze, 2 ml sample, Byredo Mojave Ghost, 12 ml. All perfumes by Jérôme Epinette.

17. Roja Dove

Born in Sussex in 1956, Dove spent nearly 20 years at Guerlain and became its Global Ambassador, the first person outside the family to hold the role. He opened the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie at Harrods in 2004, launched Roja Parfums in 2011, and wrote The Essence of Perfume.

Signature creations: Diaghilev (Roja Parfums, 2010); Danger (Roja Parfums, 2012); Enigma (Roja Parfums, 2013); Elysium (Roja Parfums, 2017).

Try their work: Roja Amber Aoud Parfum, 2 ml sample, Roja Elysium Pour Femme, 2 ml sample. All perfumes by Roja Dove.

18. Cécile Zarokian

Zarokian left medical school to study perfumery at ISIPCA, then trained for four years at Robertet under Michel Almairac. She founded her own company and laboratory in Paris in 2011, and has created more than ten fragrances for Amouage. Nishane Ani (2019) is her best-known niche work.

Signature creations: Epic Woman (Amouage, 2009); Ani (Nishane, 2019); Nanshe (Nishane, 2020); Opus XIV Royal Tobacco (Amouage, 2022).

Try their work: Nishane Ani Extrait de Parfum, 2 ml sample. All perfumes by Cécile Zarokian.

How to use this list

Start with a perfume you already love and find out who made it. Then look at that perfumer's other work: the style often carries across brands, so a fan of Acqua di Giò may well enjoy other Morillas scents, and a Black Orchid lover may like Pierre Negrin's work for Amouage.

Trying samples first is the sensible way to explore, rather than buying full bottles unseen. Our guide on why the fragrance community warns against blind buying explains why, and our 25 interesting perfume facts cover more of the history behind the craft. You can browse every perfumer we carry on our perfumers page.

Frequently asked questions

Who created Baccarat Rouge 540?

Francis Kurkdjian. He first made it for Baccarat's 250th anniversary, and it was later released by his own house, Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

Who created Creed Aventus?

Jean-Christophe Hérault, a perfumer at IFF, is credited on Creed Aventus (2010).

Who made Acqua di Giò?

Alberto Morillas created Acqua di Giò for Giorgio Armani in 1996.

What is a Master Perfumer?

It is a senior title that fragrance houses give their most experienced perfumers. IFF, for example, named Carlos Benaïm its first Master Perfumer in 2013.

Does one perfumer create for many brands?

Yes. Most perfumers work for fragrance houses such as Givaudan, dsm-firmenich, IFF or Robertet and compose for many brands. Olivier Cresp, for instance, has created for Mugler, Dolce&Gabbana and Paco Rabanne. A few, like Christine Nagel at Hermès, work in-house for one brand.

How can I find out who made my perfume?

Fragrance databases such as Fragrantica list the perfumer, often called the nose, on each perfume's page. On The Scent Stories® you can also browse our perfumer pages to see every perfume we carry by each perfumer.

Sources: Francis Kurkdjian (Wikipedia); Alberto Morillas (Wikipedia); Olivier Cresp (Wikipedia); Roja Dove (Wikipedia); Lifetime Achievement Perfumer: Anne Flipo (The Fragrance Foundation); Carlos Benaïm (IFF); Master perfumer Olivier Pescheux dies aged 57 (Cosmetics Business); Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena (Fragrantica); IFF promotes Jean-Christophe Hérault (Happi); Perfumer profiles for Dominique Ropion, Christine Nagel, Pierre Bourdon, Hamid Merati-Kashani, Pierre Negrin, Calice Becker, Daphné Bugey and Jérôme Epinette (Fragrantica); Meet Cécile Zarokian (The Perfect Magazine).